![]() But BD also chose to spend a lot of time and R&D to engineer the guide loop to sit parallel with the running rope, as opposed to the common method of aligning the loop with the body. The ATC guide combined all the things climbers wanted and needed from the ATC and XP and added a loop to hang it from an anchor. To put that in perspective, that is almost more than every model of Gri Gri ever, combined. ![]() If we combine the current version (2019, #3 Most Owned) with the discontinued 2018 version, it would actually be THE most owned of ALL belay devices among WeighMyRack users by LEAPS. Whether folks have picked them up as an upgrade to their previous version or if it came with their other new gear, the XP is one of the most owned belay devices out there.īuying Options for the Black Diamond ATC XPīlack Diamond ATC Guide – #3 Most Owned (currently available)īelaying from above on a multi pitch, big wall, or guided climb is split into two camps: those who use the Black Diamond ATC Guide, and everyone else.īy FAR the most owned guide style device, the ATC was actually discontinued and updated slightly in 2019, effectively creating 2 devices in our database. To our knowledge they were the first to do this, but the result is the ton of folks who flew into gyms over the past couple of decades have been kitted out with the XP almost de facto. One reason we have to mention that the XP is in so many bags, is the fact that Black Diamond cleverly included it in a ‘kit’ along with their entry level Momentum harnesses (and later shoes as well). Carve out some weight on the sides, and you’ve made some serious improvements to an already widely loved name in climbing. This also helps control speed when rappelling. ![]() This second version is lighter and added nuances to the shape to make it better at belaying.īlack Diamond took the tuber and tilted it slightly forward so that the rope has more friction when under load (the rope comes in contact with more of the device) and has less friction when paying out slack (the tube angle allows the leader to pull upward with less friction.) They also added v-shaped grooves on the belay side which help to hold the rope with less force. The ATC XP is the ‘second version’ design of this North American climbing classic.
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